![]() James Beard is the only writer to suggest steaming the clams in anything but water. Although these larger species are far more common in American waters, the Fish Society has some available from European colonies, which can be purchased online, but the more common smaller varieties will give just as good a flavour – it's just a shame to waste them on soup. ![]() Chowder is generally made with hard-shell clams as, according to Cook's Illustrated's New Best Recipe book, they tend to be less gritty, but the enormous quahogs (4-5in across) and slightly smaller cherrystones in the US dwarf the diminutive palourde. ![]() This proved the most difficult part of the whole endeavour – Americans are lucky enough to rejoice in an embarrassment of choice, but my three local fishmongers offer just one soft-shell variety (the razor) and one hard shell (the palourde).
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